Jean Patou
1880- 1936
Biography
"Born in Normandy, France in 1880, Jean Patou moved to Paris in 1910 with the intent on becoming a couturier. Patou opened a small couture house in 1912, which was re-opened in 1919 after his service in World War I." (fashion reverie) "His sister Marie played a very high profile in his life, she was 7 years younger and the principle inspiration for his work. Then he worked in his Uncle’s fur trade business and with this fur connection he decided to combine it with a dressmaking business in Paris, establishing this in 1910. This did not continue but he went on to start a second dressmaking business called Mason Parry, at the Rond Point, Paris (1912). This was a Tailleurs and it sold dresses and furs.In 1914 he produced his own collection, but by August the war had begun. Interrupted he joined the Zovares regiment who were the precursors of the French Foreign Legion. Upon his return in 1919, The House of Patou was opened, showing his first Couture collection. In 1920′s, he Couture fashion was evolving into a huge autonomous industry and Patou recognized its tremendous potential, both in France and the United States. He expanded the industry by introducing sportswear and emphasizing accessories. In 1925 – Patou opened a boutique called ” Le Coin des Sports” on the ground floor at 7 rue Saint-Florentin, where he devoted a series of rooms for each individual sport orientated fashion design. They were also set up in Deauville and Biarritz with accents on bathing suits. He collaborated with textile mills introducing non-shrinkage swimsuits in clever exclusive colours through thread-dyeing methods, eliminating exact copies by other lesser competitors." (headtotoefashionart)
His Designs
Critical Analysis
Jean Patou was a great iconic legend in the twenties. "Patou kept the fashionable world rapt with his ultra modern sport chic, pioneering the boyish garçonne look." (Vogue) His clothes were designed to make women feel flirty, daring, show off there bared legs. (Vogue) "Vogue praised his collections for their youthfulness and their wearability as he, borrowing liberally from men’s sportswear, defined the way women dressed for their new life on the move, out of doors, and especially on the tennis court. While Patou was clever and creative, he wasn’t the sort to toil away with a toile in the deepest reaches of the atelier. Instead, he was incredibly apt at capturing the zeitgeist and in inspiring his team. “I wouldn’t know how to design,” he said. “I couldn’t even if I wanted to, for I can’t draw, and a pair of scissors in my hands becomes a dangerous weapon.” (Vogue) Patou was a suave host and man about town. “He possessed the fastest cars, boats, and women on the Continent." (Maxwell)
The twenties were the beginning to marketing and advertising to the fashion industry. Jean Patou also got most of his success because he was a great marketer and had a bold lifestyle. He became a bigger icon when he used 6 models to represent his clothing in 1924 for his collection.
"True to type, as international financial markets collapsed in 1930, Patou launched his famous scent Joy, marketing it as “the costliest perfume in the world.” One of the greatest and most beloved fragrances in history, it has become the longest-lasting tribute to the house and its founder." (Vogue)
"The most enduring part of the French designer's legacy may be his contribution to men's fashion. In the 1920s, Patou created the first designer tie, cutting patterns from silk fabrics historically reserved for womenswear. His innovation turned the accessory, which before then was more of an afterthought, into a focal point for a man's attire, influencing future tiemakers from Christian Dior to Paul Smith." (Timemagazine)
The twenties were the beginning to marketing and advertising to the fashion industry. Jean Patou also got most of his success because he was a great marketer and had a bold lifestyle. He became a bigger icon when he used 6 models to represent his clothing in 1924 for his collection.
"True to type, as international financial markets collapsed in 1930, Patou launched his famous scent Joy, marketing it as “the costliest perfume in the world.” One of the greatest and most beloved fragrances in history, it has become the longest-lasting tribute to the house and its founder." (Vogue)
"The most enduring part of the French designer's legacy may be his contribution to men's fashion. In the 1920s, Patou created the first designer tie, cutting patterns from silk fabrics historically reserved for womenswear. His innovation turned the accessory, which before then was more of an afterthought, into a focal point for a man's attire, influencing future tiemakers from Christian Dior to Paul Smith." (Timemagazine)
Future Trends
Jean was very influenced by the era of freedom and opportunity in the 1920's. His innovations are still appreciated today. Schiaparelli isn't the only one who's designs and trends still remain alive now. According to an article, "The Past is Back", by Style.com, French brand Jean Patou, which was founded by its namesake designer in the twenties, and helmed by the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, and Christian Lacroix after Patou’s death, is going to return to the fashion scene." (Style.com) Patou had a way with sportswear, not only was he a couturier and a sportswear designer, but he was also credited for making the cardigan very popular. (Style.com) Style also states that they already have plans and ideas on what fashion they'd like to do. Having ceased to produce couture in 1987 after Lacroix left the house to work on his own label, the brand has lived on through fragrances for the last two and a half decades. Cottard suggested that the house could make its Paris fashion week comeback as soon as a year from now. (Style.com)
Works Cited
"French Fine Art Fashion Prints Collection." Head to Toe Fashion Art. Voila, 3 Sept. 2013. Web. 07 Dec. 2013. http://headtotoefashionart.com/about-httfa/
"Staff, Fahion. "Fashion Flashback: Jean Patou." Fashion Reverie. Fashion Reverie Publications, n.d. Web. 07 Dec. 2013. http://fashionreverie.com/?p=5189
Berard,Christian. Woman in green. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Cete Robe. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Patou in Colour. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Wedding Gown. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. A smart dark blue cape suit. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. L’ensemble trois-quarts. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
"Staff, Fahion. "Fashion Flashback: Jean Patou." Fashion Reverie. Fashion Reverie Publications, n.d. Web. 07 Dec. 2013. http://fashionreverie.com/?p=5189
Berard,Christian. Woman in green. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Cete Robe. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Patou in Colour. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. Wedding Gown. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. A smart dark blue cape suit. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.
Patou, Jean. L’ensemble trois-quarts. Art Fashion Prints Collection. Headtotoefashionart. Image. 7 December 2013.