Lady "Lucile" Duff Gordon
1863-1935
Biography
"Lady Lucy Duff Gordon was born on June 13, 1863, in London, England. To support herself and her child, she became a dressmaker. By 1910, Duff Gordon had also opened a shop in New York to sell her designs. The demand for her clothing was increasing. It was business that led her and her husband to book passage on the Titanic in 1912. The Duff Gordons made their way onto Lifeboat 1 and survived. Not long after the disaster, the Duff-Gordons were back in England. They became the subject of much ridicule in the press, with their lifeboat being called the "money boat" because the perceived bribe by Cosmo. The reports indicated that the money was offered to the crew to prevent them from returning to the wreckage site. In May, both Cosmo and Lucy Duff Gordon were called to testify at a British inquiry into the sinking of the Titanic. While Cosmo found to be innocent of any wrongdoing, the whole incident cast a dark shadow over the rest of his life. Lucy returned to her fashion work and even had a column in Harper’s Bazaar for a time. Not a skilled business manager, Duff Gordon had to close up Maison Lucile because financial mismanagement in the mid-1920s. A year after Cosmo’s death in 1931, Duff Gordon wrote her memoirs, Discretions and Indiscretions. She died on April 21, 1935, in London." (Biography.com)
Her Designs
Critical Analysis
"One of the early 20th century’s most prolific and celebrated designers, the London-based "Lucile" –– in private life Lady Duff Gordon –– was a key transitional figure in the evolution of fashion, exemplifying luxe and liberation at the intersection of haute couture, merchandising, media and the performing arts. The theatre-inspired mannequin processionals she launched anticipated the catwalk shows and supermodels of today. Her slit skirts, low necklines and peek-a-boo lingerie turned sexy into chic. And the unprecedented publicity her collections and branding ventures generated laid the groundwork for present-day marketing strategies. " (Lucileduffgordon)
"While little-known outside of fashion historian circles, Lady Duff-Gordon’s contributions to the fashion industry far exceed her limited notoriety.
The house of Lucile, revered for its feminine Edwardian glamour, defined the era’s aesthetic with clothes that overflowed with frills, florals, and sweet colors. It was the go-to label for British aristocracy, as well as gentries in the United States and France. But Lucile was not simply just a purveyor of hyper feminine clothes. It was a game-changer in the realms of fashion business practices, as well as marketing." (ablx) "Lady Duff-Gordon’s influence hit its peak in the Belle Époque era, a time when ruffled extravagance was de rigeuer among the world’s wealthy. But when the First World War hit, a need for simplified elegance suddenly arose." (ablx)
"While little-known outside of fashion historian circles, Lady Duff-Gordon’s contributions to the fashion industry far exceed her limited notoriety.
The house of Lucile, revered for its feminine Edwardian glamour, defined the era’s aesthetic with clothes that overflowed with frills, florals, and sweet colors. It was the go-to label for British aristocracy, as well as gentries in the United States and France. But Lucile was not simply just a purveyor of hyper feminine clothes. It was a game-changer in the realms of fashion business practices, as well as marketing." (ablx) "Lady Duff-Gordon’s influence hit its peak in the Belle Époque era, a time when ruffled extravagance was de rigeuer among the world’s wealthy. But when the First World War hit, a need for simplified elegance suddenly arose." (ablx)
Future Trends
"‘Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, was a pioneer in the fashion industry who set the blueprint for today’s luxury labels" (Claire Browne) Lauredn Redniss praises Lucile by saying "‘What didn’t Lucile do? She freed women from the corset, built a million dollar business, invented fashion modeling, and survived the sinking of the Titanic. Yet her headline achievements barely hint at the glamor and color of her remarkable life. Throughout her life people have been praising Lucile for what she has done. She is an icon legend who set trends and has continued to inspire designers who live today. Lucile's high end level even created two collections for Sears and Roebuck. While the collection may have disappeared from store shelves, the concept of design collaborations has deeper roots than fast fashion may imply. (ablx) Lucile was the first to host runway shows, release perfumes under her name, and even issue coupons in magazines. 'Lucile definitely had a keen mind for publicizing herself. She was really interested in promoting her brand through the force of her own personality' (able) ‘I think when historians look back on today, one of the hallmarks of this period will be all of the high-low collaborations,’ said Dincuff. ‘When they look for the precedent and see that it is Lucile, I think that is what she will be remembered for.’
Works Cited
"Lady Lucy Duff Gordon." 2013. The Biography Channel website. Web. Nov 22 2013, 05:00 http://www.biography.com/people/lady-lucy-duff-gordon-283828.
Sidelle, Misty White. "The Birth of the Designer Collaboration: Meet the Couturier Whose 1916 Line for Sears Sparked a Modern Fashion Phenomenon." ABLX Boston. N.p., 17 Sept. 2013. Web. 08 Dec. 2013.
Mower, Sarah. "A Scandal Survives (and Titanic Passenger) Lucile." Vogue. Conde Nast, 13 Apr. 2012. Web. 22 Nov. 2013. http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile/ - 1
Bigham, Randy. "Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile), 1863-1935." Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon : Her Life by Design by Randy Bryan Bigham. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013. <http://www.lucileladyduffgordon.com/>.
Holden, Patsy. "Lady Duff Gordon, British Fashion Icon in 1910's Who Shaped Ballroom Glamour." Examiner.com. Clarity Digital Group, 8 July 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2013. Http/:www.examiner.com:article:lady-duff-gordon-british-fashion-icon-1910-s-who-shaped-ballroom-glamour.
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Lucile Duff Gordon and the Titanic. 09 January 2012. Ixluxury. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013
Duff Gordon, Lucile. 1918 Lucile Wedding Dress. 12 April 2013. Henry Ford Costume Collection, Detroit, Michigan. Gogmsite. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Evening Dress. Digital Photo. FIDM Museum.org, Los Angeles.
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Dainty 1916 lingerie. The Fashion Institute of Technology. Sensibility. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013
Sidelle, Misty White. "The Birth of the Designer Collaboration: Meet the Couturier Whose 1916 Line for Sears Sparked a Modern Fashion Phenomenon." ABLX Boston. N.p., 17 Sept. 2013. Web. 08 Dec. 2013.
Mower, Sarah. "A Scandal Survives (and Titanic Passenger) Lucile." Vogue. Conde Nast, 13 Apr. 2012. Web. 22 Nov. 2013. http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile/ - 1
Bigham, Randy. "Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile), 1863-1935." Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon : Her Life by Design by Randy Bryan Bigham. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Dec. 2013. <http://www.lucileladyduffgordon.com/>.
Holden, Patsy. "Lady Duff Gordon, British Fashion Icon in 1910's Who Shaped Ballroom Glamour." Examiner.com. Clarity Digital Group, 8 July 2010. Web. 22 Nov. 2013. Http/:www.examiner.com:article:lady-duff-gordon-british-fashion-icon-1910-s-who-shaped-ballroom-glamour.
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Lucile Duff Gordon and the Titanic. 09 January 2012. Ixluxury. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013
Duff Gordon, Lucile. 1918 Lucile Wedding Dress. 12 April 2013. Henry Ford Costume Collection, Detroit, Michigan. Gogmsite. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Evening Dress. Digital Photo. FIDM Museum.org, Los Angeles.
Duff Gordon, Lucile. Dainty 1916 lingerie. The Fashion Institute of Technology. Sensibility. Digital Photo. 29 November 2013